Type Of Weld For Hss Tubes
Introduction to Moment and Truss Connections presented. Composite HSS (concrete-filled tubes) Advantages of HSS. Limited by fillet weld of the HSS to through plate. PJP or CJP welds can be used to increase connection strength. Good for two-way moment frame system. Moment Connections to HSS Columns Presented by Kim Olson, PE FORSE Consulting, LLC SE University, January, 2014 www.LearnWithSEU.com Remember! Due to the flexibility of their walls, local strength of an HSS at the connection may control the capacity of the connection. This is very different than designing for Wide Flange (WF) supports.
I inherited a toolbox with a zillion HSS 'cigar butts'. Lathe bits of various thicknesses that have been ground down to around an inch. I have no idea how the previous owner of the box held on to these roaches but I was thinking of just welding them to the ends of bar stock and grind to suit as boring bars or external turners. When the HSS part of the bar is used up I could just weld on another one. Is there anything about HSS that makes it a poor candidate for welding? My MIG is down right now but was gonna use 6010 in my stick welder. I think it might work though I'm not sure just how well it will hold an edge after welding.
HSS can take a lot of heat and it is air hardening, but you will be heating it to critical temperature but not tempering which may lead to the edge chipping or breaking. Not sure about that though.I'm also not sure that 6010 (6011?) Is the right rod. What limited tool welding I've done was always with special alloy rods dependant on the type of tool steel. It pay to visit a local supplier and see what they recommend.Good luck and let us know how it works out.Sandro Di FilippoSent from my ME301T using Tapatalk 2. I too have welded HSS with 304 stainless, it works well.
Type Of Weld For Hss Tubes For Kids
Also silver solder works, taking care not to over heat; HSS loses very little hardness at low red heat, in fact on heavy cuts the tool may be seen to be at a very low red and still function well if the chip bears well back of the cutting edge; I have seen cuts I made on a big planer where the chips came off at a full blue color and the tool was eroded behind the cutting edge and it still cut well for long cuts; it would have been running at red heat where the chip was bearing. I agree that silver soldering is the best route. If you get the HSS too hot,you'll ruin the temper(which is about 1000 degrees,and have very brittle bits that will break. Also,HSS decarbs badly when gotten too hot in open air. It has to be heat treated in an inert gas furnace.
If you can keep the heat down to just red hot,you'll be better off. The silver solder joint will be strong enough.
HSS is called HSS because it can get red hot and still keep cutting at the higher speeds that lathes could be run at after it was invented. New machines had to be made that could use HSS at the time. Later on,even higher speed machines had to be made for carbide. I do plan on doing that as well and have purchased some 3/16 & 1/4' bit for that purpose.
My welding question was referring to a bunch of 1/2 inch square (and larger) cigar butts that I inherited. Too big for any holder I have and too short for my BXA post. I thought they'd make good boring bars welded to the end of a plain steel shaft.
When I sold my old lathe many years ago I included lots of tooling with it (duh). Now that I'm starting up again I don't have much stuff so I'm in the 'make tooling to help me make more tooling' stage. I think since you have so many you can afford to experiment a little. If you can hold back the weld far enough from the cutting surface it should work fine. I would run a 1/2-3/4 inch weld on both sides having first ground a groove for the weld.
I would run hot say 120 amps for 1/8th 6010. I would quench just the tip of the tool up to the weld zone in oil for a few seconds and then the weld zone.
Weld one side and then the other clamp it tightly. The goal is to have a weld with good penetration without overheating the cutting edge getting the tip in the oil quickly is the key. Protect the cutting edge from spatter with tip dip.A little impact testing with a dead blow hammer might be in order.What do you have to loose? If you had a tig setup silicone bronze wire would be nice and silver solder is a good option as well.Good luck.Bob. I inherited a toolbox with a zillion HSS 'cigar butts'.
Lathe bits of various thicknesses that have been ground down to around an inch. I have no idea how the previous owner of the box held on to these roaches but I was thinking of just welding them to the ends of bar stock and grind to suit as boring bars or external turners. When the HSS part of the bar is used up I could just weld on another one. Is there anything about HSS that makes it a poor candidate for welding? My MIG is down right now but was gonna use 6010 in my stick welder. I was getting ready to weld when I remembered I had some 308L-16 stainless rod kicking around somewhere.
I found it buried on my welding cart. (in a gasketed storage tube). It was a bit hard starting because it's over 25 years old but seemed to work just fine. Can't wait to grind the tool as the proof is in the pudding. I ended up putting 1/2 inch of water in a pan and standing the tool up in it after each pass so the cutting edge was submerged. I don't think the edge ever got too hot to hold.
I did one pass on each side (4 total) with a 1/8 inch v-groove. The angle is because this will be a boring bar. That weld job looks pretty good.
Welding Hss To Hss Details
Someone mentioned using 6010 rod.That rod is not suited for this work. It is generally used for pipe welding and fabrication. It will weld even (sometimes better) when damp.
For T1 and SST or harder plate work I always used 7018 and 8018 with the C3 suffex. The C3 suffex adds nickle to the rod and gives a much better finish and quality to the weld. It works best if the materials are preheated to 200 degrees (+or-) and cooled slowly.
This will reduce warping, cracking and temper loss.Silver brazing would work well for this application also. Many of the 'A lot for A little' tooling bits have the tips silver brazed on and they work gread. This would be more than strong enough to stand up to its intended use. If you have a welding shop close by check and see if they can plasma arc weld.
This process is very high temp. And very fast so the work piece does not overheat due to the short amount of weld time.Maybe a little spendy.just sayingWhile on the subject, has anyone worked with machining or welding Titanium tube. I have a project which requires some 1-1/4' thinwall tube to be cut and welded into various shapes. Any suggestions on joining and cutting sections? I am capable of TIG or MIG welding, whichever is desirable.Much appreciated in advance.Chipbuff. That weld job looks pretty good.
Someone mentioned using 6010 rod.That rod is not suited for this work. It is generally used for pipe welding and fabrication. It will weld even (sometimes better) when damp. For T1 and SST or harder plate work I always used 7018 and 8018 with the C3 suffex. The C3 suffex adds nickle to the rod and gives a much better finish and quality to the weld. It works best if the materials are preheated to 200 degrees (+or-) and cooled slowly.
This will reduce warping, cracking and temper loss.Silver brazing would work well for this application also. Many of the 'A lot for A little' tooling bits have the tips silver brazed on and they work gread. This would be more than strong enough to stand up to its intended use.
If you have a welding shop close by check and see if they can plasma arc weld. This process is very high temp. And very fast so the work piece does not overheat due to the short amount of weld time.Maybe a little spendy.just sayingWhile on the subject, has anyone worked with machining or welding Titanium tube. I have a project which requires some 1-1/4' thinwall tube to be cut and welded into various shapes. Any suggestions on joining and cutting sections? I am capable of TIG or MIG welding, whichever is desirable.Much appreciated in advance.Chipbuff.
Assuming you're talking about plates: it would depend on you code, but usually it's the angle between the two joints that matters. If you mean a 90 degree joint with two 45 degree miter angles, I would still treat it as a corner joint. If there is a 10 degree miter angle on each piece so the dihedral angle in the joint is 160 degrees, it would be considered a butt joint.In AWS D1.1 for example, the notes of table 3.3 specify that and dihedral angle from 135-180 is a butt joint and any dihedral angle from 45 to 135 can be considered a corner joint. In the 2008 version of the code it's note j - I don't have another year handy to cross reference. Note that in some scenarios you may need to account for a Z loss factor on the acute side.If you are talking about tubes, this is significantly more complicated and we'll need more details, especially what type of tube and what code you are working to.In reference to your edit that this is a tubular mitered L connection: I believe the proper thing would be to specify a PJP weld around the two flat sides and the outside corner and a fillet on the inside corner.
For the purposes of weld qualification, the two flat PJPs would be considered butt welds and the outside corner would be considered a corner weld. This might mean that you want to provide different bevel types at each side. It is also acceptable to specify a PJP weld on the three sides and allow the contractor to chose the bevel type that is best for them as long as they obtain the effective throat you list (or the code minimum)The following is from the at the steel tube institute.QUESTION:Are different AWS D1.1 prequalified welds required around the perimeter of a 45o miter butt joint used to connect two pieces of HSS at 90 degrees?
Type Of Weld For Hss Tubes Video
Or, can the same weld be used around the entire perimeter? In either case, what is the prequalified weld typically used? A partial-joint-penetration groove weld?ANSWER:In direct answer to your question, edge preparation (beveling) of the HSS would be required along 3 of the 4 edges of the miter joint, in order to successfully accomplish PJP welds along those 3 edges.The capacity of such welds is limited, and the welds themselves (to matched box sections) need to be made very carefully. For such miter joints, especially if there is reasonable applied loading on the HSS members, it is recommended that the two HSS each be separately welded (usually by fillet welds) to a 45o stiffening plate.
This type of “knee connection” is shown and discussed on pages 67 to 69 of CIDECT Design Guide No. 3 – “Design Guide for Rectangular Hollow Section (RHS) Joints under Predominantly Static Loading”, 2nd. Edition, 2009.I'm not familiar with euronorms, but I imagine they would be similar since the underlying principles are the same. $begingroup$ Well no, a vee groove on the inside (where you would ordinarily place a fillet) and on the outside should be treated as corner joints, not butt joints.
Only the two flat faces can be treated as butt joints. That doesn't change the symbol, but may well change things like what welds are prequalified and what weld procedures cover the scenario. This weld resembles a tubular TYK more than plate welds, and I think I would look towards that section of your code.
AWS D1.1 added a whole chapter (9) in 2015 to clarify tubular joints like this. The weld is also complicated by the radiused corners. $endgroup$–Sep 9 '16 at 17:33.
For all practical purposes you have two butt welds, a fillet weld and an outside corner weld.Often for general fabrication these will be treated as separate welds. Indeed if the work is assembled in a jig they may not all be accessible at the same time.In this sort of situation weld order is very important as this type of mitre joint is very prone to distortion and SHS isn't the most dimensionally precise of materials.